Warming baths with their own hands

The bath has long been used not only to maintain the purity of its body, but is also famous for its qualities to perfectly take off fatigue, heal the body and gives an opportunity to have a good time. And in our time there is no better option than to have your own bath on your site. There you can spend with pleasure all day, changing the visits to the steam room with tea drinking and chatting with friends. The main thing is that the steam room does not quickly cool down and keeps warm well. And for this, you need to properly warm the bathhouse so that all the interior can warm up quickly and keep warm for a long time.

Special features

In the good old days, baths were erected from round wood and did not get off with warming materials. The indicator of warmth was a carefully selected wood, a high-quality log house and densely grooved grooves between the crowns.Replacement of insulation at that time was carried out with the help of moss, tow or jute and caulked in two steps - when felling the log house and after its shrinkage.

Many in our time prefer natural insulation, although drying is required before using it, but it is an environmentally friendly material. This process of warming is very laborious and long, requires a certain skill and skill. Poorly stitched seams will transmit heat and moisture will begin to accumulate in the grooves, which will contribute to the decay of wood and the rapid release of heat from the steam room.

Modern technology has allowed us to find more than one alternative method of insulation.

Due to thermal insulation, well-warmed baths have a number of indisputable advantages:

  • such a bath warms longer, but also cools for a long time;
  • has the lowest heat consumption;
  • it reaches the desired microclimate;
  • there is a control over humidity;
  • protected from mold and mildew.

And in order to achieve such results from the bath, it is necessary first of all to competently approach this process, although, at first glance, there is nothing complicated in this. For greater efficiency, the bath is warmed both from the inside and the outside.External placement of thermal insulation contributes to the protection of the material from which the bath is made. But outdoor insulation alone will not be enough. In different areas of the bath you need to maintain a certain temperature and humidity levels. For this, internal warming is provided, and for each individual room a suitable material is selected.

Types of insulation

In the modern market of building materials there are various types of insulation. And before you make a choice in favor of a particular, remember that getting a healing effect will depend directly on the material you choose.

Indoors, preference should be given to natural and safe materials. The insulating layer must be environmentally friendly. In the bath in each room has its own specific temperature regime, and at high rates, insulators are able to release toxic substances. This must be taken very carefully.

Sufficiently low hygroscopicity and heat conductivity - an important requirement for finishing, because the lower it is, the less material passes heat through itself.

All heaters available on the construction market are divided into several groups.

Organic

They are known for a long time. Even our grandfathers and great-grandfathers to preserve and retain heat in the bath used this improvised material.

By production of organic heaters use natural natural raw materials:

  • linen or resin treated tow;
  • moss;
  • sawdust from wood processing;
  • felt or jute.

Their indisputable advantage is that they are all of natural origin, and the disadvantage is a high level of moisture absorption, fire hazard, difficulty in applying and vulnerability to rodents and harmful microorganisms.

Semi-organic

In the production of this material using natural raw materials, but the process used adhesives. This insulation is not suitable for finishing steam rooms. These include chipboard and peat boards.

Synthetic

They are divided into several types.

  • PolymerTo which belong polyfoam, polystyrene foam, penofol, polyurethane foam. Such materials are strictly prohibited to use when sealing the steam room and near the stove, because they can easily catch fire and emit harmful gas when burning.But when used in adjacent rooms, they are very suitable. In steam rooms, it is allowed to use only penofol, which is covered with a layer of aluminum foil and prevents heat loss.
  • Mineral wool - these include glass wool and basalt wool. They have excellent fire resistant properties and are resistant to high temperatures. Their only drawback is that they absorb moisture. Basalt cotton wool is recommended to be used in the steam room.

Currently, leading manufacturers of thermal insulation materials have found a suitable option for warming baths and steam rooms. Special mineral wool based on stone or fiberglass is now being produced. It is used for insulating surfaces made of any material. This product is produced by modern technology and is made of broken glass and sand.

In the manufacture of stone wool used rocks similar to the gabbro-basalt group. This raw material is melted at a high temperature and fibers are obtained from the liquid mass, which are then formed into slabs of various sizes. The resulting product does not smolder, there is no smoke from it, no toxic substances are released and it prevents the spread of fire.

Fiberglass based mineral fiber has elastic and horizontal fibersBecause of this, the product is elastic and elastic. It is easily mounted in the structure and is able to fill all areas of empty space. The life of this product is at least 50 years, but after a time it shrinks. This is due to poor quality work. Stone wool is not amenable to deformation, with a competent installation, it can last for 50 years, and some species up to 100.

Currently, fiberglass mats from manufacturers such as Ursa, Isover, Knauf and Rockwool and TechnoNIKOL insulation materials found in the Russian market are widely used.

When warming steam rooms, the material must withstand high temperatures and not be affected by fire, therefore it is better to use foil plates. The surface on which a layer of aluminum foil is applied must be directed inside the room. It will isolate the material to reflect heat and prevent the material from getting wet. During its installation there is no need to use vapor barrier.

It is worth noting that today most often insulate baths from blocks of mineral wool, penoplex, foam glass and eco wool. You can choose the most suitable option for you.

Step-by-step instruction

The process of insulation and installation of the material itself is not difficult. The insulation is in rolled-up rolls or presented in the form of slabs of various sizes. Guides are attached to the surface, and insulation is laid between them. For this operation wooden blocks will be required, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the mats being mounted. If you decide to lay a heater with a thickness of 10 cm, the bars should be the appropriate size. Bars can be attached with screws, dowels or anchors, it depends on the wall material.

The main racks are attached to the counter rail at a distance of 50 cm from each other. to create an air cushion between the vapor barrier and the skin. This method is used for both internal and external insulation. The only difference between the insulation outside is in the material used in the construction of the bath.

When choosing insulation outside and method of insulation, the important point will be what material was used during construction and climatic conditions of the region. A wooden bath is not necessary to warm from the street.Wood material is able to cope with this problem, it perfectly retains heat, and insulation between the rows is a good thermal insulation. But over time, a wooden log house sits down and gaps form between the rows, which contribute to heat removal. To remove these gaps, it is necessary to cut the gaps between the rims with natural material or use basalt wool. Its structure allows you to maintain the desired microclimate and helps the tree to "breathe." This method is suitable for those types of baths that are assembled from a conventional bar, a log beam, a conventional and rounded log.

To give heat to the frame bath, it is recommended to use soft types of high density insulation that are protected from moisture, as they are mounted inside the frame. You can use a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, gypsum and lime, which will serve as an excellent barrier to heat.

Baths of brick, although they have a high thermal conductivity, to see those are not uncommon. A wall made of brick, without a good internal heating can quickly freeze. And in the baths, as you know, in winter there is no constant heating.To eliminate this drawback, in most cases, a framework of wood material is constructed inside such baths, which is then finished and serves as a decor.

Often, when building baths, foam blocks and gas blocks are used. This material, due to its porosity, is able to keep warm well, but it does not have an attractive appearance and it can absorb moisture. In this case, this material requires external insulation. The main feature of the process of insulation is to provide ventilation between the wall and insulation. Therefore, in such baths it is recommended to leave the products.

Internal wall insulation in the bath is directly related to the purpose of this or that room. The most basic component of the bath is the steam room. The temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath can reach 90 degrees, and saunas up to 130. It is difficult to maintain this heat for a certain time if the steam room does not have high-quality insulation. When carrying out this process in rooms it is recommended to use only natural, natural materials that do not emit harmful substances at high temperatures.In such cases, perfect basalt wool or natural insulation.

Warming a surface in a foam concrete bath, it is necessary to attach guides from a bar or a metal profile. With a small height, you can do with vertical stands alone and apply cotton wool with a density of 65 kr / m. cc The width between the vertical slats should be 15-20 mm less than the width of the stacked wool.

In the steam room with a frame structure, only wood material should be used. To equalize the temperature differences on the wooden bars of the frame it is necessary to make vertical cuts, through them the bar is fastened with a piece of hardware to the surface. The presence of such grooves contributes to the guide to go along the wall during shrinkage, if the bath is assembled from wood material. A vapor barrier film is attached to the inside of the structure.

In the steam room in the form of a vapor barrier, it is desirable to use penofol, which is placed inside the room with a reflective layer. The docking place must be glued with foil tape. Then, the mineral wool is mounted on the reflective layer, which is then covered with a vapor barrier film. A rail of 25-30 mm is nailed onto the frame itself in order to allow air to pass between the film and the material with which the surface will be removed.And at the last moment the insulation is closed with a finishing material, most often in a bath it is a material made of wood.

In the bath of timber or other material from the tree inside is used for warming jute. This procedure is carried out with the use of a wooden mallet - a mallet, a chisel and a shovel for caulking. Jute impose on the gaps between the rows and tightly driven there by these devices.

Washing room, dressing room or rest room can be warmed with foam, as in these rooms is not relatively hot. The process is similar to the previous one, the framework is also installed. The distance between the vertical uprights should be equal to the width of the foam, so that he came close between them. It is not necessary to protect the foam from moisture, so the film is not used. You can also attach these sheets to the wall with glue, but this option is only suitable for brick or foam concrete coatings. After the foam is fixed, you can start finishing.

It is recommended to warm the wall next to the firebox only with basalt wool and with the condition of using a metal sheet around it.

An important place in the warming of the bath is the process of warming the roof. Through it can leave a large amount of heat. For its insulation fit any insulating material that can be laid on the floor of the attic. This process is similar to the process of wall insulation.

Begin the process of sealing the bath from heat loss, as well as at home, should be from the ceiling. All the heat is going to the ceiling, so poorly insulated, it can cause a cold bath. The technology of this process will depend on the material used. The best option for sealing the ceiling in the bath is the use of basalt wool. It is laid in the same way as weatherization of the wall, starting with the frame equipment.

If you decide to insulate it with sawdust or expanded clay, you should make a skeleton between the ceiling beams on the attic floor and place the provided material there. It must be remembered that the chimney goes to the attic, so it is necessary to lay basalt wool around it, because it has high fire-resistant properties and cannot be burned, and install a protective screen of stainless metal sheet.

The flooring in the bath can be made of wood and concrete.In order to prevent cold air from entering the bath through the floor, it is warmed with expanded clay or foam. When insulating with expanded clay, it is necessary to disassemble the subfloor and remove the layer of earth 40-50 cm below the threshold. Then the waterproofing is laid, for this, a conventional film or roofing material is suitable. On the sides, the ends of this material should protrude beyond the surface of the floor.

The next step is a roughing screed. or a cushion of rubble and sand of 15 cm is made on which expanded clay is poured. Its minimum layer should be 30 cm, otherwise the proper effect of the cold will not be. Cement mortar with a thickness of 5-7 cm is poured onto the surface of the expanded clay, and the angle of inclination to the drain must be taken into account. And at the last stage the fair floor spreads. In principle, claydite can be poured into a pre-prepared skeleton of boards and a waterproofing layer can be laid on it, and then a finishing covering of wooden board can be laid. But this insulation is not suitable for the steam room and the washing station, where there is a high moisture content.

But if you are faced with a choice of how to insulate the floor in the bath, you should stop the choice on the concrete floor under the floor tile, provided that this is a washing room or a rest room, or on a wooden one, but it is preferable to lay it in the steam room.But the floor of concrete is much better moisture resistant, so the term of its use more wooden.

There is a more practical method of floor insulation - it is used as a heater for penoplex. But in the steam room this type of insulation is not suitable, because this material at high temperatures releases harmful substances. Therefore, it is better to use it in less warm rooms. To implement this option, you need to get rid of the old screed or wood cover and get the ground. Then we fill the roughing screed with a thickness of no more than 10 cm and lay penoplex or other insulants of this type on a flat surface. We lay a metal grid on the lined insulation and make a cement screed 5-10 cm thick. And after hardening of the solution, we perform flooring of the finished floor covering.

There is another way to warm the floors in the bath, and it finds an increasing number of adherents - the “warm floor” system. This process consists in the fact that pipes are poured into the concrete floor, warm water is circulated through them, and the flooring is heated. But in this case it is not about how to warm, but how to heat the floors, and these are slightly different concepts, but the essence is the same.

Warming door and window openings from the front also helps to significantly increase the warmth in the rooms. To this end, the doors in the bath do as little as possible, especially in the steam room. The windows are mounted as close to the floor as possible and dense windows are installed, while seals are placed around the perimeter of the doors and windows.

In the steam room to save heat, you need to completely abandon the presence of a window, and in the washing room you can install one small one in order to ventilate this damp room.

Useful recommendations

For cutting slabs of mineral wool, an ordinary sharp knife is used. It is not recommended to compact insulation during installation, because the less volume it has, the less insulating properties.

If the flooring in the steam room is made with tiles and even if it does not heat up much, you need wooden supports for the legs.

Warming the walls with their own hands near the stove is provided only with basalt wool with protective screen equipment using a metal sheet made of stainless steel.

        Between the finishing material and the vapor barrier there must be a distance of 1-2 cm. Small gaps are also left on the edge of the ceiling and at the bottom of the wall.

        Those who like to steam up well should not refuse modern warming materials. Neglecting them will affect the quality of the process.

        When warming a bath, no matter what material it is made of - wood, cinder block, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete blocks, do not forget about proper ventilation of the rooms. Such repairs will have a positive effect not only on your health, but also on the duration of the use of finishing materials, since they will not collect condensate.

        How to warm the ceiling in the bath, see the next video.

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        Information provided for reference purposes. For construction issues, always consult a specialist.

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